Tuesday, 26 July 2022

BHIND IN MP, THE HEART OF CHAMBAL VALLEY-ONE OF MY EXPERIENCES.

 

My posting at SBI Bhind Branch as Manager Personal Banking had been fairly long (a full 4 years from 1991 to 1995) and it has given me varied experiences. That is the longest duration I worked at any single place in the Bank. I am writing down my experiences in various places at random and in the process wrote this small narration. Hope some of you at least would find it interesting as the experience is somewhat different from what we tend to have over here. 

Bhind town is the headquarters of Bhind district and had a population of 110,000 as per 1991 census. However I have seen that currently the population of Bhind is over 2 lacs.

Bhind branch had about 30 staff in all, of which about 12 in my division. While the Personal Banking Division which I headed and the Cash Department were downstairs, the Agriculture Banking Division headed by Hemraj was upstairs.

That was my first assignment as the Manager of the Division. It was a big division and we had 120 savings ledgers in all. 2500 pensioners and 600 school teachers drew their pensions and salaries each month from there. The division always had a big rush all the time. All the transactions were manual at that time and people had to be personally present at the branch to withdraw the money as no ATM’s were there. To top it everything was manual excluding the lists of pensioners which we got done from outside.

Ours is the only commercial bank branch at Bhind apart from State Bank of Indore and probably Central Bank of India and Punjab National Bank.

The very first impression I had of Bhind is that so many people carried guns which are licensed. So many guns everywhere. I found that some people carried guns even while travelling on a bicycle. Bhind and the surrounding areas had many Thakurs, and for them to possess a gun is symbol of prestige. There were so many tractors as well because that was also looked as a symbol of prestige by the people. At that time, I have never seen that many tractors anywhere else in MP or for that matter in any other state which I had visited except for Punjab. Our branch alone has financed over 200 tractors and that was in 1991.

I want to give you an idea of the area. Once, the belt of Bhind, Morena  and Mainpuri was famous for dacoits. Since the British times dacoits abounded the Chambal. Although it was said that feudal mindset and exploitation led to dacoity, there is no proof for this, as most of the dacoit gangs have come from a higher caste backgrounds who were economically well off. One of the famous dacoits of the Chambal area is Gabbar Singh on whom the film Sholay was made. Gabbar Singh had the odious the distinction of cutting away the noses on 113 people. Another famous dacoit Malkhan Singh surrendered at Bhind in 1982. Then Phoolan Devi and Man Singh surrendered at Bhind in 1983.            

Bhind district has 29000 licensed weapons, and the adjoining district of Morena 21000, when the number of licensed guns in the entire Bihar state is only 50000. Both Bhind and Morena are the heart of Chambal Valley and part of the Chambal dacoit belt. The nearby Chambal ravines had many dacoits once. The ravines started immediately after Bhind and Chambal river was just 14 Km from Bhind and if one crosses that one enters into Etawah (Mulayam Singh Yadav’s hometown) from UP which is about 38 km from Bhind.

The ASP of Bhind Sushovan Banerjee (He is currently one of the Additional Director Generals of Police for MP) was my customer.  He told me that Bhind district had big dacoit gangs at the time of Phoolan Devi and earllier, and the police were no match for them at that time because the gangs were equipped with automatic weapons (Phoolan Devi Carried a Mauser gun)  and had many members while the Police carried 303 rifles. He also told me that all the big dacoit gangs have been eliminated now and only small gangs of 4-5 people operate and they were no match to the police.

I asked him as to how he finds his job. His remark was the IPS label appears glamorous but only the insiders knew what their position is. Probably there are lots of internal pressures which the public would not be aware of. He told me that the posting at Bhind was good for his career. I asked him how that is so, and he tells me that he has encountered 17 dacoits and that has gone into his service record. Haha some service record that.

The branch was then headed by Chief Manager Mr T.C.Jain who was a Trainee Officer of 1978 batch. He was lame in one leg and walked with a stoop. The Manager Agricultural Banking Division was Shuvinder Hemraj who was a Probationer of 1981 batch which is one batch senior to me. I did not know Hemraj prior to that  and got introduced to him there. Nirmal Singh who was a 1980 batch probationer was a Deputy Manager to Hemraj. The accountant for the branch was S.K.Gurnani.

Since I was posted at Bhind for a long duration of 4 years, a lot of incidents happened. Maybe I cannot remember all of them now because it is too distant in the past, but there are some which are simply unforgettable and I will narrate them now.

The very first incident that comes to mind is that of a shootout because that is something absolutely out of ordinary for us South Indians. As already narrated earlier, when we initially came to Bhind there was no hotel where a family can go and have lunch or dinner.

Bhind was a district headquarters but it lacked such facilities. Also because of its aggressive culture perhaps people thought such a hotel would not be able to run properly. After about 1 year after our arrival at Bhind, one guy called Amar Singh Bhadoria who owned a Gymnasium at Bhind, and had many sishyas set up such a Restaurant named “Mayura”. His elder brother was also the Sub Registrar of Bhind and he comes from an influential Thakur family.

So me and my wife had an opportunity to go and have lunch and dinner there now and then. We were too happy about it and utilized the services of the hotel often. Whenever we visited the hotel Amar Singh Bhadoria cordially welcomed us and it went on like that for about a year. The hotel is quite near to my place and is approached by a side road branching off from the main road to the left.

One day in the morning I came to know that a shooting incident took place at “Mayura” and a young waiter aged about 19 brought in by Amar Singh from Gwalior was shot dead. I was shocked and immediately visited his hotel in order to enquire about the happening.

Since a murder has taken place there the previous day, I thought that there would be police present there. But the scene that presented itself to me was simply stunning. Till that time I saw such scenes only in the movies. Not a single policeman was present at the site, but I found about 20 men holding guns with their shoulders adorned with flashing cartridge belts. Most of them were tall with beards and looked sinister and were like soldiers ready for war.

It was a sight straight out of a Western movie. Amar Singh is nowhere to be seen. The scene shook me and I did not know who those men were, or why they were there. Since I arrived there I had no choice, so I just went to one of the guys and told him that I wanted to meet Amar Singh. That guy went in, and out came Amar Singh to my relief. I asked him as to what was the matter. Amar Singh blurted out “ Saab ladayi hogaya tha. Par jobhi ho, ye hotel to kisi bhi halat me chalega hi aur band nahi hogi” then he said “ Jo hua acha hua, sala dubara is raste se gujar nahi payega”. Probably he assumed that I knew everything about the incident. I did not want to press him any further in that condition, agreed with him and left the place.

Later that day in the Bank I came to know what has actually happened. This incident requires a background to understand it. Behind it was a notorious goonda named Pappu Sharma. This guy used to collect hafta from the shops as they show in movies. Once he was caught by the police and was produced in the court. While the judge was trying his case, he jumped out of the witness box, beat up the judge and ran away. He was caught thereafter and was jailed, but another judge granted him bail. That guy used to roam around with his chelas in Bhind collecting hafta.

Amar Singh was very strict about not allowing liquor in his hotel because he meant that the hotel should be used by families along with other citizens. That day at about 9.30 PM the hotel was about to be closed when Pappu Sharma arrived with 4 other guys. Since Amar Singh knew (Of course all locals of Bhind knew him) who Pappu Sharma was he let the hotel remain open and got them served.

However, after sometime some difference came up between Pappu Sharma and Amar Singh. What exactly it was no one knows, but it was highly likely that it is regarding consumption of liquor. In the process Pappu Sharma exclaimed “Tumhara hotel kaise chalega dekhloonga”. Now Rajput guys are short tempered and take offence easily, and in the process they act first and think later. Amar Singh took it as a challenge to himself and said “Theek hai dekhlenge”. Pappu Sharma then left the place in a foul mood.

Amar Singh knew that he would come back with more men and arms. He stationed 2 of his men on the terrace of the hotel with guns and stationed another 2 men inside the hotel again with guns.

As expected Pappu Sharma reappeared in about 30 minutes with about a dozen guys with half of them armed. Pappu Sharmas group knew that Amar Singh is also a powerful guy in the area and his gymnasium had many students in Bhind. So Pappu Sharma’s group was trying to negotiate for a truce.

However, as the group is uncoordinated, a guy from the back shouted some abuse and the firing started. About 20 rounds of fire was exchanged. Amar Singh’s men were firing under cover while Pappu Sharma’s men were on the road exposed. After the exchange Pappu Sharma himself got injured as buckshot hit him on the forearm and his skin right up till his forearm joint was ripped open. He and his men finally ran away leaving their chappals and also some scooters. After the shootout was over, Amar Singh’s men found a waiter aged 19 lying dead on the floor of the hotel. That guy was brought in by Amar Singh from Gwalior just a few months back. The waiter became too inquisitive at the time when the gunfight was going on ad opened the door slightly to see what was happening. He was caught in the crossfire and died but no one noticed that till the fight was over.

The men I found next morning were stationed there by Amar Singh just in case, if by any chance Pappu Sharma mounts another attack on the hotel during daytime.

Amar Singh continued to run the hotel. Now, which family would visit a hotel where a murder has taken place? On top of that he had a doorman with a semi automatic rifle slung on his shoulder and the cashier had another semi automatic lest the hotel gets attacked again. The hotel then looked right out of a western movie or perhaps even worse because in western movies there are no doormen holding guns.

Now, I relate another incident that happened earlier to this but is linked to it. Since Bhind had no other means of recreation myself, Hemraj, Nirmal Singh and Dr Jain used to meet at each ones residence every Saturday and had dinner. That Saturday the dinner was supposed to be at Dr Jain’s residence. By the time I reached the Doctors place Hemraj and his wife have already reached there but not Nirmal Singh. I could see that the Doctor and his wife’s face are ashen and they were unable to speak anything. I then asked Hemraj as to what the matter was. He told me that some time before that Pappu Sharma and his chelas arrived at the Doctors place and threatened him of dire consequences if he does not take one nurse back. Pappu Sharma told the Doctor neither you nor your nursing home would exist if you do not take that nurse back and I will throw you and all your equipment on to the road.

The story was, previous to that there was a nurse working for the Doctor whom he removed because she was incompetent. That time the doctor just had a clinic. Later he borrowed some money from the bank and set up a small nursing home. Now that nurse wanted to come back but the Doctor was just not willing. Now that nurse knew Pappu Sharma and so she sought his help and Pappu Sharma’s arrival at the Doctors house was a consequence of that.

I told the Doctor, are Jain sab what is there in that, you just make a complaint to the police. I still remember his reply very clearly. He said “Are sab woh to hum ko road par marega”. He felt he had no choice and with great reluctance he finally took the nurse back.

Now when this shootout occurred and Pappu Sharma got hurt and ran away Dr Jain was the most happiest of all in Bhind. Since Pappu Sharma lost face after the incident and cannot possibly threaten him again, so he removed that Nurse from the job after the incident.   

But it is amazing to see in that town that none can remain safe and anyone can be threatened. Luckily, we lived in a place called Bhuta Kothi which had a huge compound around which a number of houses were located all owned by the Bhutas. They were tenanted by a number of people apart from the Bhutas who stayed there. We tenanted the ground floor of the main Kothi which had about 2 large bedrooms and 2 other rooms plus the drawing room. It is large in area but had no ventilation at all. Although there were windows at the front the windows at the back opened on to a narrow dingy alley which had drainage sewers. So the back windows although present could be opened at all and therefore the house has no chance for cross ventilation. The open area in front of the house was however, excellent. It was cemented and had a badminton court right in front of our house. I played badminton for many a day with the 2 young Bhutas and others.

There is one thing I liked about the people of Bhind. They are as straight as an arrow. If they did not like you they would tell you on your face. Scheming rarely happens among them. Of course like everywhere there would always be some exceptions there too.

The bank has given me a number of different type of experiences that added to the thrill of life and this incident is just but one of them.  

 

 

 

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