After coming back to Rudraprayag from
Badrinath, we stayed there in the night. Next day morning at around 10 AM we
started for Kedarnath. For this we had to go on road up to Gaurikund (Altitude
1980 meters) and from there had to trek 16 Km to reach Kedarnath
(Altitude 3550 Meters). That means we had to climb about 1600 meters in the 16
Km trek, which means 100 meters climb for every KM. Gaurikund
was just 75 Km from Rudraprayag and we reached it in a couple of hours’ time by
1 PM. We then had our lunch there. From there we had the option to trek to
Kedarnath, but my daughter Vineela was too small and it would have been very
difficult. So we opted for a pony to take us up.
Ponies were freely available at
Gaurikund but they are expensive at Rs 400 per pony in 1992 when as a Scale II
officer, my salary would have hardly been Rs 4000 a month at that time. We
hired 2 ponies, 1 for myself and daughter and 1 for my wife. But that journey
took us a solid 3 hours with a break in between for refreshment. The path was
lined with stones and is pretty steep. On a couple of occasions my pony’s hoof
slipped on the stones, on the 2nd occasion substantially. There
was a big drop right by our side and that too unfenced and unguarded. A slip
there would have been fatal.
I was alarmed and that too my daughter
was sitting in front of me and called the pony owner. He was walking beside me
and told me “Sir there is no problem at all. The horse is as scared as you and
I are about the fall and would protect itself sab, so just relax and enjoy the
trip.”
The view by the side of the path into
the valley was very beautiful with lovely greenery dotted with flowers. After
the valley rose another mountain range. Every now and then we saw waterfalls
coming down the range. There was a tall Mountain towering above us and visible
in the distance. We had to raise our heads up in order to view its peak, and we
were already well over 2000 meters when we started at Gaurikund. We were told
that it is Chaukamba, the 4th tallest mountain in India. Chaukamba
is double Kedarnath’s altitude of 3500 meters.
The upward pathway was too beautiful
even to describe. On one side of the path on occasions there was an upward
sloping mountain while on the other side is the valley described in the previous
paragraph. The mountain on which we were passing too had lovely flowers and
small waterfalls all along the way. We came across a little bigger waterfall
and the pony owner stopped the ponies for drinking water from the fall.
We got down and felt the water it was
chilling cold coming down from melting ice. We too had a taste of the
invigorating water and started again. There were many tourists trekking up the
slope as we passed and every one of them was really enjoying it. We reached
Kedarnath by 4 PM and went round the place taking photographs. Kedarnath looked
magnificent with Chaukamba at its back. The mountain appeared so very near, as
though it was right at the back of the temple. One feels that one can just go
out of the temple at the back and can walk down a few hundred meters to get
there. But the mountain is a solid 21 Km away and one wonders at the optical
illusion.
I heard Bengali being spoken by many
people, so assumed that Bengali’s travel a lot. At Badrinath too many people
were speaking Bengali. Also, that was the time of the Durga Pooja holidays, and
I supposed many of them like to travel during that occasion. We stayed there
overnight in a Dharmasala.
The night at Kedarnath was truly
chilling, even more chilling than at Badrinath, and one has to even dread going
to the bathroom. Exposing the skin to the chill there made ones teeth chatter.
We visited the Kedarnath temple the
next morning. Of the 3 dhams we visited in the trip, this is the only temple
where I went inside for the Darshan. Of course my wife and daughter had Darshan
in all the three. We then visited the Samadhi of Sankaracharya right by the
side of the temple. We then had lunch and caught hold of the pony guys who were
waiting for us. The downward trek took about 2 hrs and we reached Gaurikund by
about 3 PM. We started from there and reached Rudraprayag by 5.30 PM.
We then left our luggage at the hotel
and visited the confluence of Alaknanda and Mandakini which takes place at
Rudraprayag. The confluence was magnetic as the 2 rivers meeting merged with
their waters cutting each other as they combined and formed into one. We sat
there for some time taking pictures. The area had great serenity and was
sublimely beautiful.
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